Next it is on through Chollerford, still on the road as far as Fozy Moss, where the road veers off the wall as it reaches the crags of the Whin Sill Escarpment. The stage roller-coasters to Housteads, with its famed fort and English Heritage museum. There are excellent views over what Richards calls the ‘Northward Tynescape’ to the Bellingham and Simonside Hills. Now follows arguably the most scenic section of the trip, over Highshield Crags and then down via Peel Crags to the National Park car park at Steel Rigg, from where you can walk out to accommodation at Once Brewed.